Horses looking out over stall doors along a barn aisle
Learning Center · Feeding & Supplements

How much hay does my horse waste with a ground feeder versus a hay net?

Hay waste isn't one problem, it's three; see how a net or feeder changes each one, and how to weigh your own barn's number instead of guessing.

By The Schneiders Product Team · Updated September 29, 2026
8 minute read · Reviewed against our current catalog

The short answer

waste from a loose flake dropped on the ground comes from three separate mechanisms, not one: trampling into bedding, contamination by urine and manure, and, outdoors, wind scatter. A hay net or an enclosed feeder does not eliminate all three, it interrupts whichever ones apply to your setup. A net hung in a bare stall stops trampling and soiling almost entirely; the same net in a windy paddock still lets loose strands blow away once they're pulled free. There is no single waste percentage that applies to every barn, but you can find your own number with a bathroom scale and a week of patience.

The reviews we read consistently name one specific moment as the sore point: hay trampled into bedding, sifted through shavings, and mucked out the next morning still green and untouched. That is not a horse being wasteful for its own sake. It is the predictable result of dropping a flake on a surface your horse also stands, urinates, and lies down on.

Start here

The three ways hay actually disappears

It helps to separate the mechanisms because each one calls for a different fix, and a feeder that solves one may do nothing for another.

Trampling and bedding contamination. A horse standing on loose hay pushes some of it into shavings or dirt with every step. Once hay is mixed with bedding, most horses will not sort it back out, and it gets forked into the muck pile at cleanup. This is the mechanism stall owners notice most because it happens in full view, every day.

Urine and manure soiling. Hay on the stall floor sits in the path of both. A horse does not need to trample hay to lose it; hay a few feet from where it lay down or stood to urinate can become unappetizing to a horse that is otherwise a careful eater, and it gets left rather than trampled.

Wind and scatter, outdoors. In a paddock or run-in, loose flakes get picked apart by wind, pushed under fence lines, or simply spread by hooves over a larger area than a stall floor. This mechanism barely exists indoors and dominates outdoors.

How it works

Why free-choice flake feeding multiplies the loss

A horse offered a full flake on the ground has no reason to eat it carefully. It can pull at whatever section is easiest, stand on the rest, and move to a fresh section rather than work through what's underfoot. Because there is no resistance slowing intake, a fast eater can also finish a flake and stand around a stall for hours with nothing in front of it, which brings its own problems with stomach acid and boredom. The waste and the behavioral downside come from the same root cause: nothing regulates how your horse interacts with the pile once it's on the ground.

A net or a webbed feeder opening changes that interaction directly. Your horse has to work individual strands through the netting rather than pulling and dropping a whole mouthful, so what it pulls out, it generally eats before pulling more. That single change, hay leaving the container a little at a time rather than all at once, is the mechanism behind most of the waste reduction people report, not any special material in the net itself.

What that means for you

What changes when hay comes off the floor

Elevating hay, even a few inches, removes it from the path of manure and urine and makes trampling physically harder since your horse has to reach up or across rather than stand on the source. A corner mesh hay feeder keeps a flake contained in one part of the stall specifically to prevent hay being scattered where it can be soiled or stepped on. A hanging bag with a mesh bottom, like the Dura-Tech XL reinforced top hay saver bag, goes a step further and lets fine chaff and dust fall through rather than accumulate where your horse eats, which keeps the remaining hay cleaner and more appealing.

A rope net such as the Dura-Tech Everlast 2-inch slow feed poly hay net removes hay from the floor entirely and adds the pull-through resistance described above. Both mechanisms, elevation and resistance, are doing separate jobs, which is why a net hung correctly tends to outperform either a bare floor or an open feeder used alone.

The details

The trade-off: horses are built to eat with their head down

None of this means higher is always better. A horse grazes with its head lowered, and that posture serves a purpose: it lets dust and fine particles drain out of the nasal passages rather than settling in the airway, and it encourages even wear across the grinding surface of the teeth. A net or rack hung high enough to require a raised head for long periods works against both of those things.

The practical compromise is a floor-level or low-hung feeder that still interrupts trampling and soiling without forcing an unnatural head position. An enclosed unit like the Schneiders Easy-Up Pro corner floor hay feeder with netted lid keeps hay at floor height, inside a contained structure, with a slow-feed lid on top, which addresses trampling and soiling while leaving your horse's feeding posture close to natural. A net can be hung low as well, as long as it's short enough that a horse cannot get a leg through it as it empties. Match the height to your own horse's habits and to the feeder's design, not to a single rule for every barn.

Putting it to use

How to estimate your own waste

Skip the debate about which percentage is "normal," because reported figures vary enormously by bedding type, stocking density, wind exposure, and how fussy an individual horse is, and a number pulled from someone else's barn will not describe yours. Instead, run your own week-long check:
  • Weigh a flake before you feed it (a bathroom or luggage scale works).
  • The next day, before mucking out, pull out any hay that's been trampled, soiled, or blown away and weigh that separately.
  • Divide the leftover weight by the starting weight to get your own waste rate for that feeding method.
  • Repeat with a net or feeder in the same location for a week and compare the two numbers directly.

This tells you what actually happens in your stall or paddock, with your bedding, your horse, and your weather, which is worth more than any published average.

The numbers on our own shelf

The numbers on our own shelf

Source: published product specifications for hay feeders and hay nets stocked by Schneider Saddlery, reviewed September 2026.
Feeder type Example Feed opening Capacity How it addresses waste
Ground-level mesh corner feeder Dura-Tech Mesh Corner Hay Feeder Open mesh sides 2 to 3 flakes Contains hay in one corner, away from manure and urine areas
Enclosed floor feeder with netted lid Schneiders Easy-Up Pro corner floor hay feeder with netted lid 1.5-inch webbed lid Up to a full bale Floor-height posture; lid keeps hay off bedding and slows intake
Hanging bag with mesh bottom Dura-Tech XL Reinforced Top Hay Saver Bag Partitioned feeder holes Up to 4 flakes Mesh bottom drains chaff and dust so remaining hay stays clean
Rope slow-feed net Dura-Tech Everlast 2-inch Slow Feed Poly Hay Net 2-inch diamonds 3 to 4 flakes Removes hay from the floor entirely; pull-through resistance slows intake
Knotless low-hung net Schneiders Easy-Open Knotless 1.25-inch Slow Feed Hay Net 1.25-inch squares 2 to 4 flakes Soft knotless poly allows a lower, more natural hanging height
Wall-mounted frame with net Easy-Up Freehand Feeder with Everlast 2-inch Slow Feed Hay Net 2-inch diamonds Varies with net used Fixed frame keeps a hung net from dragging or twisting on the ground

What the spread shows is that "off the ground" and "slow feed" are two different features that happen to show up together in most of these products. A feeder can address trampling and soiling by being enclosed or corner-mounted without necessarily slowing intake much, while a net can slow intake dramatically without being hung especially high. Match the feature to the mechanism actually causing waste in your barn, rather than assuming every slow feeder solves every kind of loss.

Quick answers

Frequently asked questions

How much hay do horses typically waste on the ground?

It varies too much by barn to state as a single figure. Bedding type, stall size, how soiled the floor is, and how a particular horse eats all change the outcome. Rather than relying on someone else's average, weigh a flake before feeding and weigh what's left over the next day to find your own rate.

Does a hay net really reduce waste?

It addresses two of the three waste mechanisms directly: it lifts hay off a floor where it could be trampled or soiled, and the pull-through resistance means a horse generally eats what it pulls rather than dropping loose mouthfuls. It does little against wind scatter outdoors, where an enclosed feeder does more.

Is floor feeding bad for horses?

Not inherently. A lowered head while eating helps drain dust from the airway and promotes even tooth wear, so floor-level feeding has a real physiological benefit. The waste problem comes from an open, unprotected floor, not from head-down posture itself, which is why enclosed floor feeders exist as a middle ground.

How low should I hang a hay net?

Low enough to let your horse keep its head near a natural grazing angle, but short enough that as the net empties, a horse cannot catch a leg or shoe in the slack netting. Check the specific net's hanging instructions and adjust as your horse eats down through the bag.

How do I weigh my own hay waste at home?

Weigh a flake before feeding it with a bathroom or luggage scale. The next day, before mucking out, pull out anything trampled, soiled, or blown away and weigh that separately. Dividing the leftover weight by the starting weight gives you a waste rate specific to your barn, your bedding, and your horse.

This article is educational and is not veterinary or nutritional advice. Horses with metabolic conditions, dental issues, or respiratory sensitivity may need a feeding height and hole size chosen specifically for their situation. Talk with your veterinarian or an equine nutritionist before changing a feeding program for a horse with a known health concern. See also How Much Hay Per Horse Per Day for quantity guidance, and The Amazing Benefits of Slow Feeders for Horses for the digestive case for slow feeding.

Not sure how this applies to your barn? Tell us about your setup and your horse and we will help you sort it out -- ask our team.

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